Posts Tagged 'best’s'

The embarrassment of screwcaps

I know, I know, you’d love to open that Henschke Hill of Grace now under screwcap, but what would your guests think? Oh, the ignominy, oh the embarrassment.

Never fear, the Trudeau screwcap remover is here!

One of the benefits of a 60th birthday is all the fun wine gifts you get, ranging from a stopper that uses, how shall we say, a certain part of a man’s anatomy to seal the bottle, through to the wonderfully silly screwcap remover. It even comes with instructions that tell you to “turn to open the bottle”. How did we ever cope with an instruction-less corkscrew?

The idea it seems, is to hide the fact that you are removing a screwcap by allowing you to display some purpose to the action, muffling the metallic snap as the seal breaks, and then by a devious mechanism that holds the screwcap out of sight in the tool, allowing you to discreetly pop the used screwcap into the nearest bin. Your guests will be none the wiser…..apparently. You can see why I had to have one.

Thank you Peter & Sandra. It’s been a big hit already.

In the same way that car magazines often get criticized for writing about Lamborghinis and Ferraris instead of bread & butter models like BMW, wine magazines get criticized for writing about wines that few can afford, instead of writing about wines like Yellow Tail or Wolf Blass Yellow Label. Well, time to get your pens ready. The wines reviewed here today are definitely not your everyday drinking models.

1997 / Best’s / Thomson Family / Great Western / Shiraz – S$188 or S$178.60 Member Price at Crystal Wines – I’m a great fan of Best’s but I would be wouldn’t I? Highly rated by those who matter, for example Jeremy Oliver gives it a “regular gold medal” 94 point rating, and Wine Front gives it “exceptional” at 97 points. A bit of difference on the cellaring with Oliver giving it 2009+ and Wine Front saying “out to 2027”. So, is it good value? Given the vintage, it’s fair to say that the BBI shouldn’t include an allowance for getting the WET back. On that basis, a direct comparison with recent sales of the wine in Australia shows it in the market at about A$120. If you bought a bottle yourself retail, you’d land it after duty and VAT at around S$165, so S$178 isn’t that far away. At this level of buying though, and with the scarcity of older vintages, it’s probably a bit academic. If you like it, you’ll probably buy it. So, the next question is – is this the best deal for it in Singapore? That I can’t answer, but if you do see it or similar vintages around for less, let me know so we can tell the world.

2006 / Jim Barry / The Armagh / Clare Valley / Shiraz – S$290 at Epsilon Wines – I have fond memories of an Armagh consumed at a restaurant in Arrowtown in Central Otago (Gantreys from memory) in 1993 for about $50. Those were the days. It’s a serious acquisition now. James Halliday gives it “outstanding” and Oliver gives it a “top silver medal”. It’s Jeremy Oliver again who suggests a shorter cellaring (2014+) against Halliday’s 2030, not something that Jeremy is know for. You’ll have to be the judge on the price. I reckon you can still get this retail and get the WET back in which case it should be closer to S$215 than S$290 but you might waste a lot of time tracking it down.  Another case of, if you like it, you’ll probably buy it.

2008 / Man O’War / Ironclad / Waiheke Island / Red Blend – S$66 at Rubicon Reserve Wines – This looks to be a pretty stunning wine, with Gourmet Traveller Wine giving it “outstanding” (95) and Bob Campbell giving it “excellent, top quality” (93). If you’re tired of those big Barossa reds (not me!), then give it a go. RRP is NZ$46 so the price of S$66 is about where the BBI would expect it to be.

I promise that the next blog will be more Morris Minor than Porsche.

“I’ve enjoyed wine without food many times, but I’ve never tasted a wine that was unaccompanied by words” – Lettie Teague ‘Speaking of Wine’ in the Asian Wall Street Journal 3rd July 2010

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Inflation, inflation, inflation – creeping wine prices but a great deal on Peccavi

Looked at wines from Crystal Wines, Epsilon Wines, eWineAsia, Hermitage Wine, Le Vigne, The Cellar Door, The Local Nose, Wine Connection & Wine Exchange Asia.

Early into the New Year and I’ve had some adjusting to do. No, not to the quality of wine I’m drinking, but to the Bastard Box Index (BBI). I’m always adjusting the inputs, but not the criteria, for “fair comparative value” especially as the exchange rates change, but there are other influences as well. Cost of freight pushes prices up, but the swag of specials coming from liquidated (!) wineries makes some of the RRP a bit meaningless.  I’ve noticed a bit of a general price creep in Australian and New Zealand wines on sale here in Singapore, so you might have to readjust your expectations. I did say about the middle of last year that some prices were too good to last. No matter. You got that bonus and pay rise, right?

The Kiwis:

2005 / Vinoptima / Ormond / Gisborne / Gewurtztraminer / S$80.25 from Hermitage Wine – Can you believe it? $80 bucks for a gewurtz? Well, believe it you should as this winery has a tremendous following. I don’t have a rating for 2005, but Michael Cooper raves over the 2004 and the 2006. The winemaker agrees that both those years are better than the 2005 but there’s no suggestion that the 2005 is anything but another excellent wine. Besides, I just wanted to write about an $80 gewurtztraminer for a change. The 2006 is “drink 2012”, so I’m going to guess the 2005 is “drink now”. With a RRP of NZ$55, the price here is creeping into marginal BBI territory.

2007 / Felton Road / Dry / Central Otago / Riesling / S$44.90 at The Cellar Door –   Surprisingly, I couldn’t find a rating for this amongst the gaggle of Kiwi raters, so I’ve relied on Gourmet Traveller Wine (which draws on Bob Campbell anyway) who gave it 90 points and suggested drinking to 2014. RRP is NZ$30 so the price at Cellar Door is good value indeed.

The Aussies:

2006 / Shadowfax / Victoria / Chardonnay / S$42.90 at The Cellar Door – This wine comes from all over the place, hence the Victoria domicile. Shadowfax also has specific regional wines (e.g Geelong) so don’t be confused. You probably won’t be, as the regional wines are more expensive than the Victoria one. This wine is rated 94 points by Halliday, drinking to 2012, and retails for A$28. That makes the price here good value.

2008 / Peccavi / Margaret River / Chardonnay / S$52 at The Local Nose (but also at Peccavi) – Jeremy Oliver gives it 92 points, and suggests drinking between 2013 to 2016. With a RRP of A$45, the offer here is great value.

2009 / Mollydooker / The Violinist / McLaren Vale / Verdelho / S$42 at Epsilon Wines – Mollydooker had a focus on the US market and that’s reflected in the fact that I’ve only found one rating, and that’s out of Wine Spectator. They gave it 87 points (4 star) and suggested drinking it by 2009. The pricing’s OK (it retailed for A$27, US$25) so you just have to worry about the age.

2006 / Paradigm Hill / L’ami sage / Mornington Peninsula / Pinot Noir / S$80, S$75.50 by the case at eWineAsia – 4.5 stars across the board. Epicure 4.5, Halliday 90, Wine Front 93. Mid-range of the “drink by” recommendations is 2015. So far, so good but this is where it starts to fall apart. With a RRP of A$45 (and still available at that e.g. at Wine House) the price here is about S$15- S$20 a bottle above where the BBI would put it.

2006 / Bindi / Pyrette / Heathcote / Shiraz / S$75, S$71.25 Member Price at Crystal Wines – No doubting the quality. Halliday 96 points. Drink between 2011 and 2021, but…….with an RRP of A$40, same as the Paradigm Hill, about S$15 to S$20 outside the BBI.

2008 / Henschke / Keyneton Euphonium / Barossa Valley / Shiraz Blend / S$60 at Wine Exchange Asia – Do you want to be confused? Firstly, one of the respected raters says that this wine used to be called Keyneton Estate but now it’s just known as Euphonium. Wrong – the 2008 is Keyneton Euphonium, that’s what’s on the label. Another rater says it’s 75% shiraz, 11% cabernet, and 8% cabernet franc. Wrong – it’s 75% shiraz, 11% cabernet, 8% merlot and 6% cabernet franc (check my maths though). That’s what’s on Henschke’s website. But even here it gets confusing. The label says Barossa Valley, but the write-up on Henschke’s website says “[from grapes] grown in the Barossa Valley (Eden Valley and Barossa Valley). Anyway, the wine gets 92 from Wine Front and 94 points from Tyson Stelzer with recommended drinking out to 2018. With a RRP of A$48, the price here is good value.

On a comparative value basis, the Peccavi Chardonnay is the stand out, followed by the Felton Road Riesling, and the Shadowfax Chardonnay. If I wasn’t so long wine. I’d put the Henschke in my cellar too. It’s a fair price and you won’t regret it.

Sorry to hear that one of my favourite wineries, Best’s at Great Western, went under water recently. I mean actually, not financially. The vineyard copped the floods from the recent rains in the NW of Victoria and I understand that most of the vines got more water than they’d had for the last decade. My thoughts go out to everyone involved in the clean up and the restoration/preservation of this year’s crop.

This story is a little old now (October last year) but the kudos isn’t. Have a look at Australia’s first “perfect wine” judged at the 2010 Rutherglen Wine Show.

http://www.weeklytimesnow.com.au/article/2010/10/06/241321_horticulture.html

“I believe that wines of texture and elegance and length are the way forward for Australian wine. If we don’t make wines of structure, and longevity, and complexity, and increasingly wines with a sense of place, then the areas of the world market that we need to penetrate will always be shut off to us.” – Phil Sexton of Giant Steps quoted in Gourmet Traveller Wine in July 2007


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Wine quotations

"A good bottle of wine contains more philosophy than all the books in the world" - Louis Pasteur

“The unexacting palates of the masses…are content to ask no question [on origin] so long as a florin or half-a-crown will purchase a roomy flagon of strong , full-bodied, fruity wine” – CE Hawker writing in 1907

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